The horns of a dilemma

I thought readers might enjoy exploring the issues raised in a recent e-mail. At first glance, it seems like a fairly simple straight-forward exercise, until you realize the variables and pitfalls are numerous and that the math doesn’t support the running-out-of-hot-water issue.

I thought readers might enjoy exploring the issues raised in a recent e-mail. At first glance, it seems like a fairly simple straight-forward exercise, until you realize the variables and pitfalls are numerous and that the math doesn’t support the running-out-of-hot-water issue. Here’s the e-mail:  

Hi Dave:

I’m shopping for a water heater for a small condo building. We have six units, each has one bathroom with a shower/standard tub. I'm assuming a 2.5 GPM showerhead. Each unit has a newer dishwasher and a "thin twin" washer/dryer with 1.5 cubic feet capacity on washer (about the smallest out there). The building has 10 bedrooms total, we currently have eight adults and one toddler living in the building. We currently have a natural gas, 50-gal., 75,000 BTU Rheem tank style water heater with a FHR (first hour rating) of 109 for the whole building that is almost keeping up, but we are occasionally running out of hot water. Right now we have one person that showers at about 5:45 a.m. for about 10 minutes, and then three other showers happen in the morning between about 7:30 to 8:30 that are probably about 10 minutes or less. I have had contractors suggest everything from two 40-gal. tanks, two 50-gal. tanks, one 75-gal. tank, an 80-gal. tank, and a Triangle Tube Smart 60 indirect. Our boiler is a little over a year old, is a Slant Fin Mod# SE-210EDP, 210,000 BTU, about 84% efficiency. I am told the incoming water temperature is 40°F, and I would like to keep the water heater at 120°F as recommended by our utility company, but of course will follow manufacturers’ instructions for whatever new water heater we get. Naturally, we would like to keep the costs down, but get the job done. I am having trouble figuring out what FHR to go with. Recommendations have been all over the map. The info I have found online is also all over the map, so I thought I would try you! Let me know your thoughts, or if there's any other info you may need.  Thanks!

A dilemma

Ah yes … The horns of a dilemma! As much as people try to stay of hot water, they sure don't like it when the hot water runs out. A single source for hot water is the first issue I'd want to have the condo association consider. You can pretty much be assured the single DHW source will fail at the most inconvenient time, resulting in added costs due to overtime holiday pay at midnight on Christmas Eve! The other downside is that they'll be stuck with whatever is available from your inventory or whichever supplier is willing to open their doors in the middle of the night. The fact that they are being proactive before a crisis develops presents you with an opportunity to appeal to their desires and people buy based on their emotions over presentations that only deliver facts. They’ve told you what they want: more hot water; costs within reason (you get to define what’s reasonable); and the best part is others have confused the folks who will make the decision, a sure-fire formula for getting the sale if you can provide some education that will allow them to sift through the choices. Fill those needs and desires and you can walk away with the sale.

The wide range of choices and options presented suggests that not one of the contractors took the time to provide a full-range of options while explaining ECV or ROI comparisons. No wonder they’re confused!

Two basic routes

Your two basic routes are tank or tankless style. Natural gas and costs are a consideration. No mention of operating efficiencies or EF ratings. Chimney-vented, indirect-vented, direct-vented with EF ratings ranging from .58 to .98, and 82% to 98% tankless direct-vent models, plus, you need to take a hard look at that indirect water heater’s ratings and adjust them to what they’ll be when coupled to the listed boiler. Sounds like a lot of homework, and it is, but be thankful they have limited the four corners of your exercise to just gas-fired models and only one brand of indirect water heater!  

The math doesn’t look right for running out of hot water. Rheem lists a recovery chart illustrating continuous-duty recovery-rates, which shows a 65-gal. storage and recovery capacity of 120°F water (for the 75,000-Btu model) if the DHW demand is 10 minutes. That 5:45 a.m. shower (2.5 GPM for 10 minutes) will use 25 gallons of water and the mix ratio is .8125 if the bather adjusts to 105°F (providing the HW is 120°F and CW is 40°F), resulting in a DHW usage of 20.3 gallons. Next DHW demand doesn’t occur for another 1.35 hours. Sometime between 7:30 and 8:30 in the morning, three more bathers take showers. Let’s assume they live in separate units and all three start their 10 minute showers at the same time. Going back to the first single-use DHW demand, we can project a need for 60.9 gallons at 120°F. We’re getting close to the water heater manufacturer’s listed capacity, but still show a slight reserve. All it would take to run out of hot water would be a higher than 2.5 GPM flow rate and/or longer bathing times. It’s not uncommon for folks to remove flow restrictors from 2.5 GPM showerheads and higher than normal (in excess of 70 PSI) pressure will both result in higher flow rates. You can either ask the condo association to time the flows or offer to test a few where they can grant easy access. If you have a bucket with gallon markings and a watch with seconds shown, this is a simple and reliable means for solving the mystery.  

Next month we’ll explore the ECV & ROI!

All Dave Yates material in print and on Contractor's Web site is protected by Copyright 2012. Any reuse of this material (print or electronic) must first have the expressed written permission of Dave Yates and Contractor magazine. Please contact via email at: dave.yates@fwbehler.com.

Discuss this Article 7

Rod Hyatt (not verified)
on Apr 5, 2012

Great article Dave,

Consider this; A higher efficiency water heater will produce more hot water, will cost more upfront but cost less to operate providing a better ROI.

For example: 80 gallon tank 130,000 BTU modulating condensing burner at 96% thermal efficiency will produce 227 1rst hour at 100 degree rise.
http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-191i.pdf

Operating cost should be more important then upfront cost. I know, the tenants some time pays the monthly bill, not the landlord.
Also consider the new energy standard going into effect in 2015 that will mandate this higher standard.

drelectricsewr
on Apr 5, 2012

You are thinking they never wash their hands, dishes ,clothes, 9 people on a fifty if they were living in the same house it wouldnt work . Besides all in seperate apts.Multi tankless the only way to go. Less space energy saved and continious hot water. I have a fifty electric in my house .When it goes im switchen. to tankless. Me my wife two toddlers and two teenagers. Its a struggle especially sun morning before church.Hope I helped.

Anonymous (not verified)
on Apr 6, 2012

WHAT HE SAID

Anonymous (not verified)
on Apr 6, 2012

did the heater work before how old is the existing heater

Anonymous (not verified)
on Apr 30, 2012

The idea of tankless sounds good, but it is usually a LOT more expensive if you're wanting the same amount of hot water.

Dave Yates (not verified)
on Jun 26, 2012

Electric tankless? I'd suggest taking a look at an 80-gallon heat pump water heater. At 12-cents per kWh, a HPWH is the lest expensive option for DHW in my area and you already have the 30-amp circuit and wiring in place.

Anonymous (not verified)
on Jun 26, 2012

Here's what I did:

1. I wanted the hot water in the shower to be 105 F. Doctors say 104 F is the hottest your skin can take without burning. And I want to use no cold water in the shower, or as little as possible, to get to 105 F. (why throw money down the drain heating the 40 F cold water to 120 F hot water and turn around and use cold water in the shower to cool it down to 104 F?

2. Of course as you say I ran out of hot water before my shower was done.

What I did.
I bought a much more accurate thermostat. The one I had varied sometimes 5-10 degrees over or under the set point. That's why you have to set it at 120 F. With the better stat I am able to lower hot water temperature to about 108 F, saving me a lot of money in heating it to 120 F. I finally found the stat I wanted in an industrial catalog. The temp holds at the most 1-2 degrees. So I set it to 108 F.

Then I installed a simple water volume control fitting that screws in the shower pipe ahead of the shower head. It has a piston you slide back and forth to no water to wide open. I drilled a set screw in it to keep the anyone from opening it. I set the valve at 1.5 gpm (I stood there with a bucket and counted to 60). This solved the problem of having to buy a bigger hot water storage tank.

Then I looked for shower heads that produced the "pressure" tenants want (and my wife). I tried all kinds. What I found is the cheapest plastic head from the hardware store did the trick. No settings, just like Motel-6. And no compliants about pressure.

Oh, by the way, this took about a month to experiment. I did it at home first. My wife is finally not talking about it.

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